Day 4, Pucallpa → Tingo Maria

Out of the jungle, and the day I learned how to handle the dogs

https://www.strava.com/activities/10810830323

After a rest day I was ready to continue. Well rest is so much said, despite it being a good hotel the noise during the night from the air condition or minibar or something else was immense, and I did not sleep that well.

Got up, and underway at around 6:30. Heading out of the city.

Got into a good rhythm and underway with good speed. The legs, body and mind feeling goooood.

the first 180 km out of the jungle passed fast and after ca 6:30 I was ready for the first and only climb of the day over the Cordillera Azul.

At the foot I resupplied water, and off I went.

The problem, which I knew from the outward journey, was the very poor road in the first 1/4 of the climb or so. Several gravel sections. I managed to pass them all without issues, but they really destroy the mood, makes the bike dirty and hampers a good rhythm up the climb.

That said, the way up was absolutely amazing, the sounds of the insects, birds etc, palm trees and the amount of greenery was amazing. It reminded me mostly of Avatar (apart from the flying islands). Everything wet and moist one really feels that anything can and will grow here (which was why I was reluctant to eat anything that had not been wrapped in a factory far away, a bad stomach is not what one wants on a bike trip, so sacrificing local food is the price one has to pay).

The top at 1700 m was reached after 9:40 after which it was descend into Tingo Maria

This was the day, I finally learned how to handle the dogs.

As mentioned, the fight-or-flight system in the brain, kicks into the flight gear once the dogs approach, and one tries to out-ride them. That is in fact exactly whet one should not do.

So I started to get off the bike, that takes a lot of conscious though, and walk pass the dogs, they still bark, growl and tries to get you away, but do not bite after you.

What I realized today was, 1) one can stand still for a minute or so, and they see you are not that frightening and just leaves, or 2) stay on the bike and ride slowly. This is like walking, but a bit more efficient. From here I had no “problems” with dogs.

The hotel in Tingo Maria was good, a bit on the pricy side. I found a good restaurant and had some local specialties Tacacho and Juanes.

Shopped for ham and cheese sandwiches on the bike for next day.


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