Start: 05:32 on Tuesday, 30 July 2024, Kumanovo, Macedonia
Elapsed time: 14:07:04
Moving time: 10:33:56
Distance: 291.14 km
Elevation: 2066 m
When the sun rose, I finally identified the strange smell from the night before: forest fires. They were burning on the hills in the distance, and the smoky scent filled the air.
When planning my route, the obvious choice from CP3 would have been towards Skopje, North Macedonia’s capital. However, we weren’t allowed to use the major border crossing there. Plus, I try to avoid big cities—they’re slow and time-consuming to navigate. Instead, I chose the crossing near Kumanovo to bypass Skopje and under the (incorrect) assumption that the big crossing was the only option. A little extra time spent researching would have shown otherwise.
Mountain Detour
North Macedonia has a small mountain range running through it, and I ended up on the north side. To cross it, I’d picked a promising route—until it turned out to be gravel. Crap 💩!
I quickly re-routed on the fly, taking a main road instead. This meant tackling a much longer and steeper climb.
The descent took me through a completely burned-down mountainside. Seeing forest fires on TV is one thing; witnessing the devastation in person is entirely different. The smell of ash, the scorched earth—it’s not something I’ll forget.
Crossing the mountains cost me a couple of hours, yet again.
Heat, Wind, and Fatigue
The silver lining was that the climbing itself went well. Despite strong winds and temperatures between 35–40°C, I felt strong and comfortable on the bike.
Once over the mountains, I joined the main road that 99% of the other riders had chosen. While my legs felt fine, sleep deprivation was taking its toll. The dry heat didn’t help—it was so intense that my contact lenses wouldn’t stay moist, forcing me to blink constantly. Combined with the lack of sleep, I started feeling like I was dozing off while riding. I had to stop for several power naps.
Approaching the Greek border, I stopped at a pharmacy and picked up some eye drops (and sunscreen). The eye drops were a game-changer, providing instant relief.
Border Drama and Forest Fires
The border town between North Macedonia and Greece was blanketed in smoke, and the smell of the fires had worsened. The urgency in the air was palpable—two helicopters circled overhead, collecting water from a nearby lake (I rode along its shore) and dumping it on the burning hills.
It was intense.
I managed to cross the border, but later heard it had been closed shortly afterward. Other riders were directed to alternative crossings. I was lucky to slip through in time.
Into Greece
Back in Schengen and the EU, I set my sights on Serres, Greece. The first few hours were tough—the heat was oppressive, and I couldn’t find a good rhythm. By the afternoon, as the temperature dropped, I started feeling better.
The last couple of hours were incredible. Along the south shore of Lake Kerkini, I felt like I was flying.
Serres and a Touch of Luxury
I arrived in Serres and booked a hotel, the most expensive one so far. It didn’t have a restaurant, but the receptionist kindly ordered a burger for me from a local place—I needed the protein.
The room had a balcony, which meant I could dry my clothes outside. For the first time in days, I wouldn’t have to put on wet clothes in the morning. A small luxury, but one I savored.
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