Start: 04:11 on Wednesday, 31 July 2024, Serres Municipality, Greece
Elapsed time: 17:48:41
Moving time: 14:24:31
Distance: 343.72 km
Elevation: 2578 m
Checked out of the hotel at 4 in the morning, and the receptionist refused to charge me for the Coke I had the night before. A nice gesture to start the day.
I got underway later than planned. I’d hoped for an earlier start to avoid some of the punishing afternoon heat, but my body had other ideas.
The morning ride was on big roads, sticking mostly to the side roads near highways. They were surprisingly nice but a bit hilly.
Mediterranean Views
After 90 km, I approached Kavala, on the Mediterranean coast. As usual, the route involved climbing several hills, but then—there it was, the sea view appearing out of nowhere. It’s always a magical moment.
Descending into Kavala, I was struck by how lively the city felt compared to the small, quiet villages I’d been passing through during the daytime. The cooler, fresher seaside air was a welcome relief.
Afternoon Heat and Headwinds
The afternoon ride was grueling. Extreme heat along major roads made it challenging, and the scenery wasn’t much to write home about. Navigation issues cropped up here and there, but nothing too serious.
About 150 km after Kavala, I reached Alexandroupoli in the late afternoon. By then, the combination of heat and a nasty headwind had drained me completely. I made a longer-than-usual stop to refuel and recover before pushing on toward the Turkish border.
What looked like a straightforward ride on the map turned into a battle against a relentless headwind. It was exhausting, both physically and mentally.
Border Frustrations and Awe
I miscalculated the border’s location, thinking I was closer than I was. A navigation mistake added to the frustration—I climbed 3 km unnecessarily and nearly ended up on a motorway. After retracing my steps, I found the correct route. Still, the border was another 10 km away.
When I finally reached the border, it was a proper, bustling crossing. Cars and trucks were lined up, as you’d expect. Luckily, being on a bike has its perks—I skipped the line and went straight to the front, breezing through the Greek side.
And then, the real border experience began.
Barbed wire lined the sides of the road, ready to block access if needed. Military personnel stood on both sides of the crossing. A clear dividing line ran through the middle of a bridge—classic border vibes.
The contrast between the two sides was striking.
The Greek side was worn down, riddled with potholes, and clearly neglected. On the Turkish side, grandiose buildings stood tall, freshly maintained and imposing. It couldn’t have been more different.
As I approached the Turkish checkpoint, one of the officers spotted me.
“TCR?” he asked.
“Yes,” I replied.
“What cap number?”
“156.”
“What are you waiting for? Go, go, go!” he said with a grin. It was a cool moment and marked the start of many positive experiences in Turkey.
Into Turkey
Crossing the border, the first thing I noticed was a massive Migros warehouse with its iconic orange sign—a funny contrast to the border’s intensity.
From there, I followed a straight, four-lane main road for about 20 km to Kesan. The road had a wide emergency lane, making it fine for cycling, though it felt like a highway. The ride was safe but boring.
Kesan and the Hotel Hunt
Once in Kesan, I struggled to find a hotel. The first two I located via Google Maps were either closed or still under construction. Eventually, I settled for one of those large hotels that look impressive from the outside but turn out to be plastic and cheaply built on the inside.
I ordered something from the restaurant, handled my usual cleaning routine, and went to bed.
For the first time, I wasn’t allowed to bring my bike into the room. Instead, I had to remove all the bags and leave the bike elsewhere. A minor inconvenience to end a long day.
Leave a Reply